Try a taster at the Museum of Edible Earth
Photo: vog.photo. 2021
Daniel Nelson
Museum of Edible Earth is, of course, a tasting exhibition.
It’s a little daunting because before you are given your first cardboard cup of earth you are warned to stop eating immediately if you experience any discomfort and must sign a declaration that participation is entirely at your own risk.
There’s virtually no danger since the tasting portions are small and are part of the diets of many people around the world.
Researcher masharu, a soil-eater from childhood and the museum’s founder in Amsterdam in 2017, says the database contains 600 samples from 44 countries, including Cameroon, Germany, India, Mexico and Nigeria.
Masharu says geophagy is deeply rooted around the world and is used for health, ritual and culinary purposes.
A wall of small labelled bottles and a short video showing consumers in Suriname and Lithuania offer an aperitif before the main course, the tasting.
The tastes on offer tend to be subtle, apart from the clays — which seem to draw in all available liquids in your body — but it’s interesting to be made to think about linking so directly to Earth and Nature and about why many societies equally strongly equate soil with dirt and lack of hygiene. There’s even a word, pica, for “the persistent craving and ingestion of non-food items for at least one month”.
Apparently, only two specific soils have been approved for marketing, which is surprising in an age where new “superfoods” are promoted every week: perhaps healthy soil will be the next bottled water.
Museum of Edible Earth, pay what you can, is at Somerset House, Strand WC2R 1LA until 26 April. Info:Somerset House
18 April, Earth Day: Geophagy: A Sensory and Cultural Workshop, Dr. masharu, 4-5.30pm, £17.50/£13.13
16-18 April, Earth Day Weekender, exhibition and activities, £30